Antarctica Travel Tips

When, Where, and How to travel to Antarctica…and what to Pack

Have you been to Antarctica? Leave a comment and let others know which “Expedition Company” you sailed with and a note about your experience.

The following is a list of suggestions and general information if you’re considering a voyage to Antarctica. This is from knowledge gained after 14 voyages “South” during different times of year, from a variety of itineraries and on several different ships. Additional, more in-depth, information will follow. I travel to Antarctica  and the Arctic a great deal as a photographer, usually teaching workshops or as the “Photographer in Residence” for a few expedition companies. I hope this information and the provided links are of help. Comment or email me should you have any questions and I’ll be happy to try and help. If you’d like to see a larger collection of images from Antarctica please check out this link.

When to go: My favorite time of year is early in their season which means November into December. The snow is fresh and once you’re around one of the penguin colonies with over 100,000 birds you’ll appreciate that fact. One word to consider…POOP, lots of poop. Earlier in the season ice conditions may limit areas where the ship might be able to explore but you’ll learn straight away that there’s always a Plan A, B, C etc… with any of the voyages.

The end of the season for the expedition ships is late March and perhaps early April. Later in the season you’ll see more penguin chicks that have hatched and perhaps more whales although during my last three voyages in Nov. and Dec. we’ve Zodiac cruised with an increasing number of Humpback, Minke and Orcas. So, when to go is a bit dependent on what you would like to photograph and how far South you might want to go. Early season might find some of the areas blocked with ice left over from the previous winter.

Where to go: The vast majority of the Expedition Companies begin their voyages in Ushuaia, Argentina and head South to the Antarctic Peninsula. This is changing a bit since the port of Ushuaia has become very busy for its size and also because of what seems like constant strikes in the country which affects travel. There are several routes they might travel and a number of sub Antarctic islands such as the South Shetland Islands that may be visited along the way. My suggestion. Save up your money until you can take a trip which includes South Georgia Island with a possible stop in the Falkland Islands. These are typically twenty day trips whereas the voyages which are a more direct to the Peninsula are generally around ten days. Depending on the temperament of the Drake Passage expect two days sailing time each way.

Penguins…Unless you come across a young stray you will not encounter the Emperor Penguins on most of the trips to the peninsula. South Georgia is a whole story on its own and I’ll make another post about that experience. Suffice it to say it should be on your “must visit/photograph” list, especially if you’re taking the time to visit Antarctica proper.

How to get there: Most likely you’ll be traveling to the Antarctic Peninsula in which case the point of departure, with a few exceptions, will be Ushuaia, Argentina. You can arrange flights to Ushuaia, a port city on the Beagle Channel, from Buenos Aires on two different airlines, Aerolineas Argentina or LAN Airline. My preference is LAN Airlines, if you can get a seat. Do your research to see what documentation you’ll need to enter Argentina, especially when traveling from the United States or Canada. Fees due before you fly!

I suggest you arrive in Ushuaia the day before your ship disembarks because Argentina has a habit of having strikes with little or no warning which can really mess up the few flights that do fly there. Book early and be aware of holidays, at home as well as in Argentina. I’ve sailed with a few different polar expedition companies and conduct Photo Tours, usually in November and December. I’ve worked for years with a stellar company in polar travel, One Ocean Expeditions. The two ships they’re currently operating are highly recommended, sister ships named the Akademik Ioffe and the Akademik Sergey Vavilov. Personally I prefer sailing on the Vavilov. It has a great bar/lounge on the top deck next to the bridge with great views and easy access to get out quickly with your camera. Again, do your research. Stick with a ship that holds no more than 100 passengers due to the limits on the number of people allowed on landing sites in Antarctica. Some ships, like the ones mentioned here, are better equipped to handle the high seas and ice you’re most likely to encounter. Also consider the available shooting desk space. I’ve seen a few in port that I’d hate to be on just because of the outer deck space…or more accurately the lack thereof.

Most if not all the ships depart from Ushuaia late in the day, around 6pm and on the return date you will most likely arrive early in the morning. You may be be back in port early enough to catch a flight out that same day if that better fits your schedule. If you have the time spend a day or two exploring the Tierra del Fuego National Park which connects to Ushuaia. Daily tours are available from town.

And What to Pack: When you travel to Antarctica it will be during the summer months and you’ll probably be surprised and how warm, relatively speaking, the Antarctic Peninsula can be. Most of the expedition companies offer “wetskins” waterproof jackets and pants. Use them, unless you care to try your hand at removing penguin poo from your cloths when you get home. You’ll also need rubber boots and those are provided as well. So, cold weather gear to wear under the wetskins along with a good hat and a few pairs of gloves will make for a good start. The thing I look for when purchasing hats and gloves is that it’s windproof. Consider purchasing some hand warmers to throw in your bag. Your hands ARE going to get wet, and so will you and your camera gear/bag, so have a backup pair of gloves and liners. I also take along a heavy pair of rubber gloves like commercial fishermen use for those long wet and rough Zodiac rides. As with any active outdoor activity in the cold you’ll want to dress in layers and leave the cotton clothing at home. Laundry service is usually available on the ship so pack smart, and don’t over do it.

I’ll go into greater detail on specific clothing I recommend for when you travel to Antarctica along with camera gear I use in another post so please check back. You can find out more about my upcoming trips including Antarctic and the Arctic when I have something scheduled under the Workshops tab on my website. There are no tours for Antarctica posted at this point but we’re working on a schedule.

Be sure to check out the time-lapse clips which condenses 18 days of an Antarctic tour into a 3 minute clip!

Please share this information if you’d like, comment or shoot me a question. I hope this was of help!

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Photographing Penguins

by David C. Schultz…”Emperor of all Penguin Photographers” The Sun

It’s not that’s it’s difficult to find penguins to photograph but getting to them is usually a whole different story. How difficult or long of a journey really depends on which species; there are 17, that you’re interested in capturing. My experience photographing them over many years has been limited to those found in the far southern hemisphere in Antarctica and the sub-Antarctica islands such as South Georgia Island. Like I said, getting there is another story!

As with much of what goes into capturing good images you have to know a bit about your subject, in this case things like, which species, do you want to see chicks, and what kind of terrain they like on shore. My trips South have always been ship based. We move around to different locations, usually doing two shore landings or perhaps a Zodiac cruise each day. Zodiacs, larger rubber inflatables, are used to get from ship to shore most of the time but on certain trips helicopters are also used. That’s the usually the case when trying to reach Emperor Penguins.

I’ve recently returned from my fourteenth voyage to Antarctica which is a fascinating place to visit even without the penguins being present. I’ve found that what typically comes to mind when people think of penguins, besides “Happy Feet” , is the Emperor Penguin, the largest and the most difficult to reach. It’s also one of the two truly Antarctic species along with the Adelie.
Reaching the Emperor Penguins takes an icebreaker and usually a helicopter since they’re going to be found on the sea-ice and in waters that are much more difficult to access. Once the icebreaker has “parked” in the fast-ice a helicopter takes us out to the base camp, a staging area, and then it’s usually about a two mile hike across the ice to reach the penguin colonies. The other ships I travel on are ice-strengthened and Zodiacs are used to get around. Before leaving the ship I’m checking to make sure camera settings and selected gear allow for that unexpected moment. This might be a penguin appearing on a beautiful iceberg as the Zodiac comes around a corner or a group of penguins porpoising alongside us as we’re cruising to shore.

So, I check the ISO, set the camera to shutter priority then crank up the shutter speed, image stabilization on, and the best lens selected for the possible conditions I might encounter. Two of my favorite lenses for this scenario are the Nikkor 28-300mm and the Nikkor 80-400mm. I seldom have a need for an extreme telephoto lens since the penguins are typically close at hand.

I remember one morning, right at sunrise, we were approaching the beach and the intense yellow and orange sky was beautifully reflected in the water along the shoreline. I noticed several small groups of King Penguins near the water so upon hitting the beach I immediately set off to capture shots of them before the sun came over the surrounding mountains. The intense colors in the water perfectly mimicked that of the feathers along the neck of the penguins. The opportunity was over within fifteen minutes or so and if I’d not been prepared I’d probably missed the shots which at the end of the voyage were some of my favorites.

It can be overwhelming when you first reach some of the beaches because of the sheer numbers of penguins in some colonies. I see it all the time when I take clients to Antarctica and I was guilty, if you want to use that term, of this myself. Where to begin, what’s actually interesting, or more to the point, what makes an interesting photo. You land on the beach and there might be several hundred thousand penguins, along with the other wildlife, so many that people are not sure where to begin! Perhaps a good problem to have when it comes to wildlife photography.

When I first head out I’ll usually start with capturing the grand scale and overall surroundings, including perhaps the weather conditions showing the penguins in their environment. Once I’ve captured a series of “reference shots” I then slow down, sit down, and just watch for a while. I’m constantly observing how the penguins are interacting with each other, with their nest, the egg they might be on, or a recently hatched chick. My favorite wildlife images are those that show some of the personalities of the subject, especially if a humorous caption quickly comes to mind.

There’s constant motion, and a lot of noise, around the colonies with the birds coming and going from nest to the ocean, feeding, bathing, stealing stones from each other for nest or looking for a mate This constant moving about can be good as it may present many different photo opportunities but it can also be a little frustrating at times when trying to frame a shot so you have to learn to anticipate possibilities. Under the right conditions I look for a spot along the shore where the penguins are coming and going. It might be a sandy beach or one that is rocky or where there’s a high lip of snow they have to jump over as they rocket out of the water.

I’m always looking for a way to frame a subject within something in the scene too. I spent over an hour sliding across the ice one afternoon trying to coax some penguins to a spot I’d marked so I can get them framed within a hole in an iceberg.

I’d seen the berg earlier in the day but the sun was at the wrong angle so I went back later and fortunately the penguins, especially the chicks were very curious and followed me as I moved away from the rookery. So, watch for something that can frame a shot or help to isolate the main subject from the chaos.

Depending on the time of year and the species of penguins the colonies can get VERY ripe “stinky” to put it mildly. There can be lots of penguin pooh, on the ground and on the penguins. Later in the season, January to March this is especially more obvious making it more important to select a place from which to shoot. Your best bet is to catch the penguins exiting the water when their feathers are clean and wet and it’s also when they’re more animated. I spend a great deal of my time down at the water’s edge, especially if there’s a bit of surf coming in.

One morning while photographing Chinstrap penguins the light was really bad, it was late morning, very cloudy and the only angle I could shoot from pretty much required the penguins to be back-lit. I decided to go to an extreme to show the motion of the penguins going into and coming out of the surf. I used a slow shutter speed with the help of a 2 stop ND filter and fired away. The motion of the waves along with that of the birds made for some interesting photos to a feel for the battle they have just getting into the sea.

Using a low point of view with a wide angle lens may also add interest to the image rather than shooting downward at the birds. If you just sit and hang out quietly on the beach you’re very likely to have the penguins coming right up to you, and your camera. If you leave something sitting around it’s all fair game for closer inspection.

I’ve gone from the wide-angle view which will including the landscape and perhaps other wildlife, closer shots of individual penguins, couples or nesting birds, some action in the surf and next would be details. Again, catch the birds as they leave the water is a prime location because you might catch water droplets on their feather which will also now be nice and clean.

Exposing for penguins can be a little tricky because you’re usually working with just black and white feathers which might have highlights from water and perhaps some snow. It’s very important to keep an eye on your histogram making sure you’re not blowing out the whites thereby losing details in the feathers. It’s truly amazing to see just how much detail there is.

In the end, and like with much of photography, there’s a lot of sitting around watching and waiting for something interesting to happen. Each trip South becomes a bit more of a challenge, trying to find a new perspective or to improve on something you’ve shot before. My next trips to Antarctica is still in the works. If you have any questions or comments please let me know.

Planning a trip to Antarctica? Here’s a link to an early post regarding what you might want to pack, and what to leave behind!

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Behind the Shot – Snow Hill Island, Antarctica

So, each day was about the same process and we were fortunate to have had six days of beautiful weather during the voyage to Snow Hill Island in Antarctica. I spent about eight hours or more daily on the ice watching, photographing and looking for different possible compositions. One morning I spotted a fairly small iceberg which resembled the head and back of a whale with its mouth wide open. I hiked over for a closer look and was excited to find there was a hole running through the “mouth” to the backside of the berg. Not only that but, due to the ice thawing and refreezing, the opening was an intense blue which made an interesting shot on its own. Immediately I thought how wonderful it would be to have a group of penguins framed within this crystal blue window.

There was the shot except the light was wrong and the penguins were off to the right about fifty yards away. I returned later in the afternoon when lighting conditions were better so as to bring out the intensity of the blue hole but still there were no penguins any closer to where they needed to be for the shot. I set up my tripod and mounted one of my cameras on the RRS BH55 ballhead so I was looking through the hole. I took a few test frames to check my exposure then proceeded to attempt a Pied Piper of Penguins routine. Here’s where a stash of krill would have come in handy.

I walked over to the closest group of penguins, mostly chicks along with a few adults, laid down on the ice and waited. One great thing about penguins is that they are curious, I mean really curious. It didn’t take long for a clutch of chicks to start walking my way. I’d observed this many times over the past few days, how they seem to send out one chick from the gang first, perhaps to see if it gets eaten, and then the rest join in. Along with the chicks the adults wandered over joining my little parade. For over an hour I waited until they got close then I would slide back along the ice slowly making my way towards the spot I needed for the shot. Each time I slide backward the penguins advanced. I had another camera with me to record the “action” and got several wonderful shots.

Finally I figured there were enough penguins within the area I’d selected so I slowly stood walked around the iceberg to where the camera had been left and began clicking away. The idea that first had come to mind was to have several penguins surrounded by the hole but soon I realized that less would be more. And so a waiting game began once again. Slowly the penguins began to get bored and returned to join the rest of the rookery. And then it happened. It’s so rewarding when an idea and composition finally comes together, especially when dealing with wildlife. The whole experience of spending time with this group of birds, on the ice all by myself is one I will never forget. What a privilege.

So often I hear the remark that “you must be a very patient person” but I believe a more accurate word is tenacious. I’ve been so fortunate to have now traveled to Antarctica nine times so far and each trip, during different seasons, locations and weather conditions has brought with it so many photo opportunities. I’ve only been able to photograph the Emperor Penguins this one time which in a way makes that experience all the more memorable.

You can find out more about my upcoming trips under the Tours tab on my website.

View some of the video I’ve shot as well on my YouTube Channel. Be sure to check out the time-lapse clips which condenses 18 days into a 3 minute clip!

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Antarctica 2015

Gentoo Penguin chicks in Antarctica

A crabeater seal on an iceberg below the Antarctic Circle with our ship the Akademik Ioffe in the background.

I’ve just returned from 2 wonderful photo tours in Antarctica including my first visit to the Antarctic Circle. Seems odd after 14 voyages South to only now to have reached that latitude. Would love to have spent more time below the circle but did manage to capture some wonderful photos while there. I’ll be posting a few more in the coming days and you can see images from previous visit at this link. Also, be sure to check out some of my upcoming and closer to home photo tours and workshops like this one in Southern Utah this spring.

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Getting the Shot: Penguins at Snow Hill Island

Here’s a short article about what it took to capture this shot of an Emperor Penguin at Snow Hill Island, Antarctica.

So, each day was about the same process and we were fortunate to have had six days of beautiful weather. I spent about eight hours or more daily on the ice watching, photographing and looking for different possible compositions. One morning I spotted a fairly small iceberg which resembled the head and back of a whale with its mouth wide open. I hiked over for a closer look and was excited to find there was a hole running through the “mouth” to the backside of the berg. Not only that but, due to the ice thawing and refreezing, the opening was an intense blue which made an interesting shot on its own. Immediately I thought how wonderful it would be to have a group of penguins framed within this crystal blue window.

There was the shot except the light was wrong and the penguins were off to the right about fifty yards away. I returned later in the afternoon when lighting conditions were better so as to bring out the intensity of the blue hole but still there were no penguins any closer to where they needed to be for the shot. I set up my tripod and mounted one of my cameras on the RRS BH55 ballhead so I was looking through the hole. I took a few test frames to check my exposure then proceeded to attempt a Pied Piper of Penguins routine. Here’s where a stash of krill would have come in handy.

I walked over to the closest group of penguins, mostly chicks along with a few adults, laid down on the ice and waited. One great thing about penguins is that they are curious, I mean really curious. It didn’t take long for a clutch of chicks to start walking my way. I’d observed this many times over the past few days, how they seem to send out one chick from the gang first, perhaps to see if it gets eaten, and then the rest join in. Along with the chicks the adults wandered over joining my little parade. For over an hour I waited until they got close then I would slide back along the ice slowly making my way towards the spot I needed for the shot. Each time I slide backward the penguins advanced. I had another camera with me to record the “action” and got several wonderful shots.

Finally I figured there were enough penguins within the area I’d selected so I slowly stood walked around the iceberg to where the camera had been left and began clicking away. The idea that first had come to mind was to have several penguins surrounded by the hole but soon I realized that less would be more. And so a waiting game began once again. Slowly the penguins began to get bored and returned to join the rest of the rookery. And then it happened. It’s so rewarding when an idea and composition finally comes together, especially when dealing with wildlife. The whole experience of spending time with this group of birds, on the ice all by myself is one I will never forget. What a privilege.

So often I hear the remark that “you must be a very patient person” but I believe a more accurate word is tenacious. I’ve been so fortunate to have now traveled to Antarctica nine times so far and each trip, during different seasons, locations and weather conditions has brought with it so many photo opportunities. I’ve only been able to photograph the Emperor Penguins this one time which in a way makes that experience all the more memorable.

You can find out more about my upcoming trips under the Workshops tab above.

View some of the video I’ve shot as well on my YouTube Channel. Be sure to check out the time-lapse clips which condenses 18 days into a 3 minute clip!

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Tips For Photographing Penguins

by David C. Schultz

Originally posted on iso.500px.com

It’s not difficult to find penguins to photograph, but getting to them is a whole different story. The difficulty or length of your journey really depends on which species you want to photograph—there are 17 penguin species that you’re interested in capturing. My experience photographing them over the years has been limited to those found in the far southern hemisphere in Antarctica and the sub-Antarctica islands, such as South Georgia Island. Like I said, getting there is another story!

First, get to know your subject. In the case of penguins, things like which species, do you want to see chicks, and what kind of terrain they like on shore are things to consider. My trips south have always been ship-based. We move around different locations, usually doing two shore landings or a Zodiac cruise each day.

Zodiacs—larger rubber inflatables—are used to get from ship to shore most of the time. But for certain trips, we take helicopters. That’s the case when you’re trying to reach Emperor Penguins.

I recently returned from my 12th voyage to Antarctica which is a fascinating place to visit, even without the penguins present. I’ve found that what typically comes to mind when people think of penguins—besides the film Happy Feet—is the Emperor Penguin, the largest and the most difficult to reach. It’s also one of the two truly Antarctic species along with the Adelie.

Press play to watch David Schultz’ video of Emperor Penguins. Warning: Cute overload!

Emperor Penguins are found in the sea, ice, and in waters that are much more difficult to access. To reach them would take an icebreaker, a ship designed for breaking a channel through ice, and usually a helicopter.

Once the icebreaker has “parked” in the fast-ice, a helicopter takes us out to the base camp, a staging area, and then it’s usually about a two-mile hike across the ice to reach the penguin colonies.

The other ships I travel on are ice-strengthened, and we use Zodiacs to get around. Before leaving the ship, I always check to make sure my camera settings and gear are ready for that unexpected moment. That moment could be a penguin appearing on a beautiful iceberg as the Zodiac comes around a corner, or a group of penguins porpoising alongside us as we’re cruising to shore.

So I check the ISO, set the camera to shutter priority, then crank up the shutter speed, get image stabilization on, and the best lens selected for the possible conditions I might encounter.

Two of my favorite lenses for this scenario are the Nikkor 28-300mm and the Nikkor 80-400mm. I seldom have a need for an extreme telephoto lens, since the penguins are typically close at hand.

I remember one morning, we were approaching the beach at sunrise. The intense yellow and orange sky was beautifully reflected in the water along the shoreline. I noticed several small groups of King Penguins near the water. Upon hitting the beach, I immediately set off to capture shots of them before the sun came over the surrounding mountains. The intense colors in the water perfectly mimicked that of the feathers along the neck of the penguins. The opportunity was over within 15 minutes. If I hadn’t been prepared, I would’ve missed taking these shots. At the end of the voyage, these shots were some of my favorites.

At first, it can be overwhelming when you reach some of the beaches, because of the large numbers of penguins in some colonies. I see it all the time when I take my clients to Antarctica. I was even guilty of this myself! There are several hundred thousand penguins, along with the other wildlife — so many that most people are not sure where to begin! It’s a good problem to have when it comes to wildlife photography.

I usually start with capturing the grand scale and overall surroundings, including the weather conditions and the penguins in their environment.

Once I’ve captured a series of “reference shots”, I slow down, sit down, and just watch for a while.

I constantly observe how penguins interact with each other, especially with their nest, the egg they might be on, or a recently-hatched chick.

My favorite wildlife images are those that show some of their personalities, especially if a humorous caption quickly comes to mind.

There’s constant motion and a lot of noise around the colonies. These penguins will be coming and going from nest to the ocean, feeding, bathing, stealing stones from each other for a nest or looking for a mate. This constant moving about can be good. It will present many different photo opportunities. It can also be a little frustrating at times, so be ready to grab the shot.I usually look for a spot along the shore where penguins come and go. Look for a sandy beach or one that is rocky.

Look for where there is a high lip of snow they have to jump over as they rocket out of the water.

I’m always looking for a way to frame a subject within something in the scene too.

Once, I spent over an hour sliding across the ice, trying to coax some penguins to a spot I’d marked so I can get them framed within a hole in an iceberg.I’d seen the berg earlier in the day but the sun was at the wrong angle. Later, I came back and found some curious penguins — and chicks — following me as I moved away from the rookery.

So, watch for something that can frame a shot or help to isolate the main subject from the chaos.

Depending on the time of year and the species of penguins, the colonies can get veryripe — stinky, to put it mildly. There can be lots of penguin poop, on the ground and on the penguins. This becomes more obvious later in the season, from January to March, making it more important to select a strategic place to shoot from.

Your best bet is to catch the penguins exiting the water when their feathers are clean and wet. This is also when they’re more animated. I spend a great deal of my time at the water’s edge, especially if there’s a bit of surf coming in.

One morning, while photographing Chinstrap penguins, the light was really bad. It was late in the morning and very cloudy. The only angle I could shoot from required the penguins to be back-lit. I decided to go to an extreme: to show the motion of the penguins going into and coming out of the surf. I used a slow shutter speed with the help of a 2 stop ND filter — and fired away. The motion of the waves along with that of the birds made for interesting photos.

You could just feel the penguins’ battle of getting into the sea.

Using a low point of view with a wide angle lens can make your image more interesting, rather than shooting downward at the birds.

If you just sit and hang out quietly on the beach, you’re very likely to have the penguins coming right up to you and your camera. If you leave anything sitting around, it’s all fair game for closer inspection from the penguins.So now I’ve got shots of penguins from the wind-angle view, which includes the landscape and other wildlife, closer shots of individuals, couples or nesting birds, some action in the surf. The next would be to photograph some details.

Catching the penguins as they leave the water is a prime location, because you might catch water droplets on their feathers, which will also now be nice and clean.

Exposing for penguins can be a little tricky. You’re usually working with just their black and white feathers, which might have highlights from water and some snow. Keep an eye on your histogram to make sure you’re not blowing out the whites and losing details in the feathers. It’s truly amazing to see just how much detail there is.

At the end of the day — like much of photography shoots — there’s a lot of sitting around watching and waiting for something interesting to happen. Each trip South becomes a bit more of a challenge, trying to find a new perspective or to improve on something you’ve shot before. My next trips to Antarctica will probably be in March 2015. This gives me an opportunity to witness the environment as winter begins to set in.

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King penguins seen during the South Georgia Island-Antarctic Photo Tour

 South Georgia Island-Antarctic Photo Tour

Polar photographer David C Schultz, deemed the “Emperor of Penguin Photographers” by the British press will be hosting a photo tour back to Antarctica starting Jan. 31st, 2015. The Antarctic Photo Tour will include South Georgia Island, the Falkland Islands as well as many others along the route along the Antarctic Peninsula. David has photographed and filmed in Antarctica over a dozen times so has a wealth of knowledge on how to capture exceptional images and he’s eager to share this information and love of this exceptional part of the World.

For more information please check out this link. You’ll also see several other Photo Workshops David is offering including one other Antarctic Photo Tour to the Antarctic Circle!

Check out David’s time-lapse video showing a previous 19 day voyage shortened to 3 minutes!

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